From Rambles and Observations in New South Wales by Joseph Townsend, 1849.

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There are many salt-water lakes on the coast, separated from the sea by banks of sand, which, occasionally, give way after heavy rain. As the force of the stream, which then rushes from them, is gradually abated, the waves of the sea again throw up the sand, and they are confined to their former limits. There were many romantic nooks on the shores of the lake at Ulladulla, and these I used to explore with exemplary diligence. It was frequented by the common wild-duck and teal, and by the black duck, the wood-duck, by huge pelicans, and by cranes, curlews, waders, and shags; and "ebon swans sailed down the watery road." The shags were generally to be found, in dreary conclave, perched in a row on some dead tree which had fallen into the water.

The ducks mostly frequented the margin of the lake, and fed in the shallows. Sometimes a large eagle soared above them, casting his shadow upon the water; but they appeared not to regard his presence; and his philosophic pate was apparently occupied with any thoughts but those of ducks or ducklings.

In duck-shooting I used an old French rifle, converted into a smooth-bore, and an excellent gun it proved to be. With it I have shot albatross at sea, and quail on shore. The dog I enlisted in my service as a retriever, was a coarse-bred bull-dog; who, however, was much better than he looked; but he ultimately adopted vagrant habits, and devoted himself to the society of the blacks, of whom dogs are generally very fond, or rather, perhaps, of their wandering life.

The black ducks were very large, and excellent eating. They also frequented pools of fresh water, which are very commonly found near the sea; and, I presume, are sometimes formed by the percolation of sea-water. In Moneroo are musk-ducks; and there, by-the-bye, is a bubbling fountain, strongly impregnated with soda, to which settlers resort with large tumblers and bottles of brandy, and enjoy what they call “fizzers."

We had also on the lake a gray speckled diver, with a sharp pointed bill, and, at the back of its head, a tuft of feathers like a small cue. He swims with a jerking motion, and his head is constantly moving from side to side, like that of a Sydney policeman, which is said to be fixed on a swivel, and whose eyes are said to box the compass as he strides along, grasping a thick stick.

On the borders of the lake was a forest of trees, killed by the rising of the salt water; and most melancholy was their aspect. On their naked branches was the stand of the dreamy-looking, nodding heron; who, when disturbed, sailed along with heavy flight, uttering a sullen, barking, croak. Here I used also to find a little bird speckled with bright colours; and which, but for the length of its tail, might have been taken for a humming-bird of low cast. The creek was frequented by fly-catchers of eccentric flight, and by the Nankeen-bird. This is of a light cinnamon colour: its head is adorned with a pair of streaming white feathers, and, on the wing, its appearance is as elegant as that of a high bred lady.

On the banks of the lake were immense heaps of cockle-shells, the accumulation of which it is difficult to account for. When burned they make good lime. The lake abounded with snapper, mullet, eels, and small fry; and is said to contain immense flat fish. Sharks sometimes find their way into such lakes, from the sea, and attain a large size. The snapper, when boiled, and smothered in melted butter, is not to be despised. The eels, also, are excellent; but the mullet are too rich; these and large eels are converted into oil to supply the settler's lamp.

A ready method of catching eels is to sink a bag, open at the mouth, and containing straw and the entrails of a sheep. The eels will crawl into the bag, to feed on the entrails; and then, with its contents, it is lifted out of the water. I was never tempted to use the rod and line, although I often remarked the liveliness of the fish on fine, warm evenings. At such times, the blow, struck as they leapt, and their falling splash, were heard incessantly.

By the sea-side was a belt of heath, about a mile in width, and many miles in length, which afforded our most agreeable rides, as we then escaped from the woods. Here reigned the most perfect solitude, which, one might have imagined, the foot of man had never disturbed. On one side glittered the bright Pacific, whilst sombre mountains formed the background, shutting us off from the distant interior.

This open ground produced many specimens of "the beautiful genus Epacris, which may be called the Heaths of Australia, being nearly allied to them, and perhaps superior in beauty" (Sir William Hooker); and there were also many rare flowers.

Under one's feet sprang up the ground parrot, of a light green colour, and elegant form; and a native dog on the prowl was sometimes seen skulking away. Where a wild dog is found on a plain of any extent, it is easy to ride him down; but here they always made their escape into the dark line of wood that girds the heath, "like fringe upon a petticoat." They are much like jackals, and often contrive to surprise and kill a calf in the absence of its mother.

When the calf is too young to follow the cow, she conceals it,—colonially, "plants it,"—when she goes away to feed; and the stockman, who wishes to discover the young thing, rides about bleating like a sheep, and it answers him; and much was I astonished when I first heard a stockman thus calling unto his brother. The foals are generally safe from the attacks of these dogs, as they are able to follow the mares; but I have seen the dogs crouching and gambolling about them as if very anxious to make an attack. The mongrel dogs, possessed by the blacks, are often a great nuisance to the settler, as they kill the calves and chase the horses. They have been even known to drive a herd of horses to the edge of the cliffs by the sea; but, when the mares thus find themselves in a quandary, they attack, in their turn, with their fore feet. These mongrels are originally acquired from the settlers. The native dog is the only wild animal destructive to stock. Snakes, however, are often fatal to stock-dogs, and are said to cause the death of horses and cattle.

Townsend, Joseph. Rambles and Observations in New South Wales. Chapman and Hall, 1849.

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