From Rambles and Observations in New South Wales by Joseph Townsend, 1849.

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Our forest-trees are mostly the different Eucalypti; and they afford an inexhaustible supply of fine timber. Some of them attain a great size, and run up, like solid columns, for sixty feet without a limb; but many of the larger sort are hollow from age, and from the effect of bush-fires which stream up them, as through funnels.

Trees, for timber purposes, are usually about twelve feet in circumference, and are much used in ship-building. Several handsome vessels have been built on the beach at Ulladulla, entirely from the produce of our woods, the masts excepted, which were brought from New Zealand; and some ships built in Sydney were lately in the Thames; but I doubt if the Sydney ship-builders always procure the best timber that the colony affords; and I think that, in this respect, they might take lessons at Ulladulla, from Messrs. Warden and Gee. The panelling in the cabins of the vessels built at Ulladulla was of cedar, a wood nearly equal to mahogany.

It is worthy of remark, that moss grows on that side of the trees which faces the north, and so is sheltered from the cold southerly winds. We have, thus, one of the signs which Nature provides for guiding the wanderer in the pathless wilderness.

Many flowering shrubs are to be found in the woods; and a great variety of everlasting flowers. A tree more resembling a blue and white laburnum than any other to which I can compare it (but its form is more elegant) is exceedingly handsome; and some gather its boughs to adorn their huts.

A shrub, the size of a hazel, and with a similar leaf, bears a flower much like a yellow fuchsia. Another has a bunch of flowers like those of the fox-glove; but each pendant half the size, French white, and shaded,—especially in the mouth,—from light blue to maroon. A tree, about twenty feet in height, and with a dark green leaf, bears wax flowers in dusters of five or six, shaped like a jonquille, of a fleshy substance, and the colour of dark maroon.

There are the castor-oil plant, the wild indigo, and the native currant and raspberry trees. The mimosa,—although it sadly chokes the country,—when in flower, fills the air with fragrance. Its bark is much used for tanning purposes; and the gum that exudes from the stem is of some value as an export, and is used by the blacks as food. The New Holland acacias are well known.

In the scrubs is found a tree, commonly called “the nettle tree" (Urtica gigas). It is often thirty feet in height, and has a large, broad, green leaf. It is appropriately named; and the pain caused by touching the leaf is, I think, worse than that occasioned by the sting of a wasp. Many ludicrous stories are told in New South Wales of those who have incautiously handled these leaves, and more might be learnt in Kew Gardens, where this tree is to be seen.

I find both the eucalyptus and the acacia affinis flourishing in the open air in Devonshire. In the beautiful gardens of Mr. Veitch, near Exeter, is a specimen of each. His eucalyptus is sixteen feet high, with a large spreading head, and, about two and a half feet from the ground,the stem measures nearly two feet in circumference. It blooms freely every year, flowering in clusters and is very aromatic. It has been standing in its present situation about eight years without any shelter. Two young plants have been raised from a pod of its seed. Mr. Veitch's Australian parrots were exceedingly delighted when he presented them with its flowers, or buds, or even with the leaves.

His acacia is an open standard, about ten feet high, and bushy. The stem, at two and a half feet from the ground, measures ten inches in circumference. It has been planted about eight years. The acacia would have been much higher had it not been several times headed down to make it bushy. This gentleman has also another Australian plant, which stands, uninjured, without shelter, namely the Hakea puginiformis.

Eucalypti are to be seen at Kew. "One," says Sir William Hooker, in his ‘Guide to the Gardens,' is distinguished by a summit reaching to the ceiling; and, therefore, unfortunately, but necessarily, despoiled of its crown." The Australian house at Kew is well worthy of a visit; and I recognise in these gardens many old Ulladulla friends; especially the Banksias, the Telopea speciosissim, the acacias, and many of the genus Epacris, We had also many orchideous plants at Ulladulla; and they are very numerous in the district called Illawarra, to which we presently travel.

The woods were peopled with kangaroo, wallaby, (a smaller species) kangaroo rats, flying squirrels, porcupines, native cats, and with an infinite variety of birds. The opossums live in the hollow trees; and the blacks cut them out of their retreats; and sometimes smoke them out.

Hawks occasionally contrive to take them; and I have seen one of those large birds carrying an opossum in its talons, whilst another hawk attended his flight, as if to put in his claim for a share of the booty. They carry off this animal, and also parrots and quails, by the head. I have seen one thus fly away with a parrot; the unfortunate captive uttering the most dismal screams, and appearing to furnish its tormentor with a large painted tail, as it fluttered helplessly, with its wings expanded. The largest hawk I killed measured six feet five inches, from tip to tip of wing. Others,

I think, exceed this measure by at least eighteen inches, but are never seen except when carrion is in the woods. The hawks often destroy the pigs that feed in the woods; perching upon their backs and tearing them to pieces.

On moonlight nights I used to shoot both opossums and flying squirrels, which could then be discerned as they clung to the boughs; for they keep close by day, and feed only at night. I employed my dog to find them, which he did by the scent; and I was also accompanied by a dark shadow, or, in other words, by a black, who greatly enjoyed the sport, and laughed loudly, showing his white teeth, when the creatures fell.

Flying squirrels, of all sizes, are to be seen in the moonlight, darting amongst the boughs, like flashes of light. In consequence of the opossum feeding on the leaf of the gum-tree its flesh has a peculiar taint, and our dogs would not eat it unless it were first roasted. It is an an active animal. The emigrant mechanic, whom I more particularly mention in another place, says, referring to a leap that he saw an opossum take—“I have since found, that the gift of these animals in this way is perfectly wonderful; certainly, if there is in this world an unconquerable dare-devil animal, it is the old man Possum, and, indeed, all his family, mother, sons, and daughters, after their sucking days are over: until then you may tame them."

The forest is never silent. At night is heard the cry of the opossum, the squeal and chirp of the flying-squirrel, the wail of the curlew, the hooting of the night-jar, the chorus of the loquacious green frogs, and the occasional cry of the tree-frog. During the winter nights the woods resound with the deplorable and doleful howling of the native dogs, as of fiends in torment; and once, when my window blew open, I awoke in a fright, thinking that a whole legion of them had burst into the room; so much had I been unconsciously affected by their outcry.

In the morning, one is awakened by the swallows that build under the shelter of the verandah; and by the rich piping note of the magpie, whose music is mellow and sweet, A very ugly bird, “whom serpents fear” is called the Laughing Jackass, and it boo-hoos right-out at sunrise and sunset, with a hoarse, cackling laugh. The white cockatoo flies about in great flocks, uttering a harsh, screaming note. When at rest, he emits a gurgling, groaning sound, as of a man in pain.

This cockatoo is often tamed, and learns to talk well, and to be a great wag. There is also a black cockatoo, with an execrably harsh note. The base of the skulls of both of these birds is very thick, and forms a strong fulcrum for their powerful bills. The bell-bird's tinkling chime is heard near the swamps; and there, also, the coachman cracks his whip; and the cheerful cry of the spur-winged plover is heard; a bird furnished with a spur on the front of each wing, with which, I imagine, he ploughs up soft ground, when searching for insects. The tall native-companion is sometimes seen stalking along in the swamps, or standing, like a statue, looking at his toes; and, by their edges, rises the handsome cabbage-tree palm, waving aloft the green plume that adorns its head.

Captain Grey well describes the manner in which the natives kill the cockatoos with the bommerang.

“A native perceives a large flight of cockatoos in a forest which encircles a lagoon; in countless numbers they scream and fly from tree to tree, as they make their arrangements for a night's sound sleep. The native throws aside his cloak, so that he may not even have this light covering to impede his motions, draws his bommereng from his belt, and, with a noiseless, elastic step, approaches the lagoon, creeping from tree to tree, from bush to bush, and disturbing the birds as little as possible. Their sentinels, however, take the alarm; the cockatoos furthest from the water fly to the trees near its edge, and thus they keep concentrating their forces as the native advances; they are aware that danger is at hand, but are ignorant of its nature. At length, the pursuer almost reaches the edge of the water, and the scared cockatoos, with wild cries, spring into the air; at the same instant the native raises his right hand high over his shoulder, and, bounding forward with his utmost speed for a few paces, to give impetus to the blow, the bommereng quits his hand as if it would strike the water, but, when it has almost touched the unruffled surface of the lake, it spins upwards with inconceivable velocity, and with the strangest contortions. In vain the terrified cockatoos strive to avoid it; it sweeps wildly and uncertainly through the air; and, so eccentric are its motions, that it requires but a slight stretch of imagination to fancy it endowed with life, and, with fell swoops, in rapid pursuit of the devoted birds, some of whom are almost certain to be brought screaming to the earth."

This instrument, called a bommereng, is made of wood, and is much like the blade of a scimitar. I believe it has been introduced into England as a plaything for children.

A great variety of parrots, of splendid plumage, are to be seen at Ulladulla. They are a saucy, mischievous bird, and commit great havoc among the Indian corn; but are themselves very good eating. They build in holes in the trees; and the blacks climb for the young birds by means of notches cut in the bark, and descend with them on their heads, carefully balancing them.

The Ulladulla blacks occasionally drive rather a brisk trade in birds, and travel to Sydney with them for sale; and the noise and chatter of their peripatetic aviaries are great. Some of the birds they carry in cages; but others on their heads, where they sit very contentedly. It is a pretty sight to see a number of parrots flocking round a stream to drink, and pleasant to hear the sweet notes they utter, as they call the one to the other.

Large flights of paroquets sweep through the air in flocks, screaming and whistling, and alight on the tops of the high trees. A very good gun is required to reach them there; and, when they fall to the ground, their varied colours (in which green, a light blue, and yellow prevail) are first seen with any distinctness. A large blue-and-white pigeon frequents the bush; as also does the bronze wing pigeon, and a pretty chocolate-coloured dove. All the pigeons are good eating, both in pies and puddings; but, when alive, require very hard hitting in order to bring them down, and, when dead, very hard biting, for they are rather tough.

The white cockatoos make good soup. In the book of adventures before alluded to, we are, thus, again introduced to the Commissioner: "shooting was a favourite pastime of his, when not attended with too much labour, and he, consequently, committed great slaughter among the wild pigeons and cockatoos. The latter bird makes excellent soup, but, being remarkably wary and sagacious, is difficult to be approached, in consequence of which the Commissioner had recourse to a perfectly novel and original stratagem to get at them. He caused a large and leafy branch of gum-tree to be cut, armed with which and his double Manton, and screened from observation by the foliage, he contrived to get within gun-shot of the enemy, who, being very gregarious, generally left many killed and wounded on the field.

The success of this method quite delighted the little Commissioner, who contemplated, in the spoils before him, the attributes of many a good tureen of soup to cheer his inward man. It was perfectly exhilarating to see with what an air of self-importance and satisfaction he collected the fruits of his prowess and invention, and consigned them, with many an injunction, to the safe custody of his convict cook. What a pity it was that such things as bushrangers and blacks should ever interfere with so agreeable a diversion! How quietly and calmly would he have gone on the even tenor of his way!"

Beautiful little lizards run about in the sunshine, and sometimes make their way into the house, and run over the face of one enjoying an after-dinner nap. The Iguana puffs and pouts, and bakes itself on the hot stones that rise above the water in the creeks. When disturbed, at a distance from the water, it waves its tail on high, as a French postillion flourishes his whip, and rushes into the stream. In the Hunter River district, the jew-lizard sometimes attains the length of five feet, and will maintain a stout battle with a good dog.

The trees, at Ulladulla, are in summer filled with cicadæ, who maintain a noisy din. With them appears a bird whose note is exactly like “cook it up," rapidly repeated; and at this time, much manna exudes from the gum trees. The noise the cicadae make is exceeding great, and one would imagine that each individual insect was animated by the soul of Serjeant Buzfuz. It seems to be the same insect that Dr. Shaw describes as follows:— "In the hotter months of summer, especially from mid-day to the middle of the aflemoon, the cicada, or grasshopper (as we falsely translate it), is perpetually stunning our ears with its most excessively shrill and ungrateful noise. It is, in this respect, the most troublesome and impertinent of insects, perching upon a twig, and squalling sometimes two or three hours without ceasing, thereby too often disturbing the studies or short repose that is frequently indulged in in these hot climates, at those hours."

I entertained no doubt that this insect was identical with that mentioned in the Georgics; and I find this opinion supported by a passage in " Insect Architecture" (p. 148), where the following line from the 3rd Georgic is quoted:

“Et cantu qaeralie rumpent arbusta cicadæ."

In that work, and in “Insect Miscellanies," are collected many very curious particulars with regard to this noisy songster, on which the writers have bestowed name of the “Treehopper." In the latter work is the following passage:— “It is to the treehopper, and not to the grasshopper, that these lines of Anacreon apply:

“Happy creature I what below Can live more happily than thou? Seated on thy leafy throne, (Summer weares thy verdant crown,) Sipping o’er the pearly lawn The fragrant nectar of the dawn, Little tales thou lovest to sing. Tales of mirth—an infant king.”

In New South Wales this insect is commonly called “a locust," and I observe that Dryden translates “cicadæ," now " locust," and now "grasshopper." The line above quoted is rendered,

"When creaking grasshoppers on shrubs complain;" and the following line:

"Sole sub ardenti resonant arbusta cicadis,"

"The creaking locusts with my voice conspire."

There are also indigenous bees, which form their dwellings in the hollow trees. The natives catch one of them,—they are small, black, and stingless,—and, with gum, attach to its back a downy feather from the white cockatoo. They then let it go, and, springing over every impediment, pursue its flight, in steeple-chase style; but with their eyes, of course, fixed upon it. They are thus guided to the hive; and, as they run, they shout and yell like infuriated Bedlamites. The honey of these bees is black, and anything but tempting.

In Sir Thomas Mitchell's "Narrative of three excursions into the Interior" (vol.i.p. 171), he notices the wild bees.

“We were now," he says, "in a ‘land flowing with honey,' for the natives, with their new tomahawks, extracted it in abundance from the hollow branches of the trees, and it seemed that, in the season, they could find it almost everywhere. To such inexpert clowns, as they probably thought us, the honey and the bees were inaccessible, and indeed invisible, save when the natives cut it out, and brought it to us in little sheets of bark; thus displaying a degree of ingenuity and skill, in supplying their wants, which we, with all our science, could not hope to attain. They would catch one of the bees, and attach to it, with some resin or gum, the light down of the swan or owl; thus laden, the bee would make for the branch of some lofty tree, and so betray its home of sweets to its keen-eyed pursuers, whose bee-chase presented, indeed, a laughable scene."

Musquitoes abound in the summer months, when cane-bottomed chairs are, decidedly, to be avoided.

It may easily be conceived, that, in ransacking the woods I have described, and in exploring a wide lake, a new comer has much interesting employment. But riding soon becomes his chief resource; and, however much he may have been accustomed to a horse, he has still something to learn.

Townsend, Joseph. Rambles and Observations in New South Wales. Chapman and Hall, 1849.

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