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From Guide to Modern Peru: Its Great Advantages and Vast Opportunities by Adolfo de Clairmont, 1908.

When a horse was almost as strange a sight in the New World as a dinotherium, Pizarro's cavalry galloped out toward the enemy with their war-bells jangling on their metal breastplates; priests of the church swung their censers and recited the exsurge Domine as the battle opened, nearly a century before the Fathers landed at Plymouth Rock. Dust had gathered on the parchment records of Lima's library, its university was old, before the little red school-house of the States had begun. Its history had been written by its own citizens, its clever young men were satirizing their townspeople, and writing verses after the most approved European models when Chicago was merely a prairie swamp.

And not all the earthquakes which have shaken it, nor the countless revolutions and wars, have been able to destroy its ancient outlines and antique flavor. The very atmosphere, which blankets the town for a good part of the year in a tawny, sunlit haze—something more than air and less than mist—seems designed to shut in and preserve the past. One may still see, overhanging the street, carved balconies which the colonists patterned after those of their native Andalusia; houses with inner courts big enough for palaces, great spike-studded front doors almost as formidable as the gates of a city....

...The vast plain in which Lima is situated, that is to say the extensive valley of the "Rimac," forms its rural surroundings which have been divided for their better irrigation into fifteen smaller valleys, subdivided, in their turn, into 176 estates which all together measure more than 21,000 hectares of cultivable lands and 14,000 of woods. The sowing in the neighborhood of Lima is performed during the whole year, with exception of the first three months, which are those of the hot season.

The villages, or rural towns, roundabout Lima are insignificant, and are formed by plain houses and small huts, as are Lurigancho, Ate, Surco which in the colonial period was the small town preferred by the men of position for the building of their country houses and gardens of amusement and Magdalena which is the most important of them. This village is situated at only one kilometer from the sea, and one side a new village has sprung up called Magdalena del Mar. The waves are so high and the currents so strong that for the present it has not been possible to establish baths in this place.

It has some very elegant houses, and a fine casino for amusement. The bathing-resorts, which have beautiful and luxurious villas, known in Peru by the name of "Ranchos," possess far superior conditions.

At 23 miles from Lima, comfortably run over by railway, is situated the bathing resort, of Ancon, which is notably different from the others at the South of Lima. Its beach is sandy, free from stones, the tides and waves are mild and smooth,so that the baths here are specially adapted to children, sick persons or those of weak health.

The form of the town, like that of all modern centres, is entirely regular; as it is completely surrounded by arid fields it is a very dry place and for that reason its climate and temperature are good and healthy. Near to Lima there is also another bathing resort, the small village of La Punta, situated in the neighborhood of Callao at the level of the sea, on the Peninsula of the same name. This bathing-resort, united to Callao, and Lima by an electric railway, is frequented by many people from both places.

Its baths have special conditions and the Bathing Establishment has excellent accommodation. In this place, as in those before mentioned, there are elegant buildings erected by well to do inhabitants.

Its circumference may be put down as about 12 square kilometers. Lima, as the capital of Peru is the seat of all the central powers;—the President of the Republic, his Ministers, and the high officials of the different administrative sections, such as the Post-Master General, the Director of the Mint, the Head of the General Treasury etc., etc.;—His Reverence, the Archbishop of Lima and other metropolitan "dignataries” of the Church also reside in Lima. In like manner Congress, the Supreme Court, the Higher Court of Accounts, the General Staff of the Army, etc. have their seat in Lima.

Clairmont, Adolfo de. Guide to Modern Peru: Its Great Advantages and Vast Opportunities. 1908.

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