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Until the time of Charlemagne, it is useless to try to trace modern geographic divisions or modern race characteristics among the rude savage hordes which swept down from northern Europe upon Rome. Roman culture and with it Roman luxury, were apparently destroyed, and for the food customs of the time we can turn back to the records of barbaric peoples, as outlined earlier in this course. There are, however, four strong influences discernible:
1. Influence of Eastern peoples and of Eastern food-products upon Western barbarians.
2. Influence of monastic life and habits.
3. Influence of submerged, but not entirely lost, Roman culture and manner of living, which gradually affected all European, customs.
4. Influence of constant war, making fighting, instead of agriculture and manufacture, the chief industry.
I. Influence of Orient.
1. Difference in natural products, introduction to tropical fruits, to spiced foods, richer wines.
2. With rise of Mohammedan faith, certain food restrictions grew up.
II. Influence of Monasteries.
4. Monasteries only places of protected quiet in turbulent times. Therefore peaceful arts were fostered there, especially agriculture, horticulture, and breeding and raising of stock.
5. Men of refinement and culture were attracted to them, and gradually older ideal of rude, coarse fare was superseded by tradition of soft living.
6. With large numbers of men in these bodies, functions of each became subdivided and well-defined, leading to constantly growing luxuries of living and of service.
7. Constant communication between widely scattered monasteries of the four orders fostered interchange of delicacies and growth of luxurious living.
8. Monasteries only inns of time, and therefore the hospitality of their tables became famous.
9. Constant entertaining of high ecclesiastical and political dignitaries necessitated highly developed service and luxurious provision.
10. Monastic study and research to discover elixir of life resulted in brewing and distilling of rich liquors; thus we get choicest of wines and cordials from monastic orders, benedictine, chartreuse, etc.
III. Influence of Roman Culture.
1. Survival in Italian cities where invaders overwhelmed but did not wipe out conquered population.
2. Survival in literature and traditions of earlier days, disregarded at first by conquerors, but preserved largely through influence of monasteries.
3. Gradual reappearance in mode of living of leaders among the conquerors, who desired to ape magnificence of their predecessors. IV. Influence of Constant Warfare.
1. Return to simplicity of natural, local foods.
2. Return to simplicity of preparation, with ruder style of living.
3. Falling off of food-supply checked tendency toward extravagance and luxury.
The Crusades
I. Introduction of New Food Supply.
1. Oriental fruits: orange, citron, melon, plum, prune, date, fig, raisin.
2. Spices: cloves, mace, etc.
3. Nuts: almond, filbert, etc.
II. Rise of Church Dignitaries to great temporal magnificence, with attendant luxury in living and service.
1. Creation of Kingdom of Jerusalem under Godfrey de Bouillon.
2. Formation of Orders of Templars and Hospitallers.
III. Immediate Popularizing of Oriental Methods of food preparation
1. Through returned Crusaders.
2. Through travelling clergy.
3. Through influence of "palmers."
France, Spain, and Italy in Middle Ages
I. Distinguished by Greater Refinement of Cookery than that of North European countries and England. Paid more attention to manner of preparation.
II. Difference in Climate caused great difference in proportion of meat to vegetables in diet. England and Germany spoken of contemptuously for huge consumption of beef and brawn.
III. Difference in Natural Products and Native Fruits, as olive, grape, etc., made difference in diet.
IV. Artistic Taste Led to Extravagant Service, as "sotelties," huge fancy pieces done in sugar and intended only to please the eye; peacock roasted and served in plumage ; boar's head gilded before serving, etc.
V. Renaissance Affected Art of Dining, as all other arts.
1. Elaborated table service and ceremonial.
2. Elaborated dishes and utensils; in Italy, table-fork invented.
3. Elaborated cookery itself, and rarity and costliness of viands sought for.
Barrows, Anna, and Bertha E. Shapleigh. Outline on the History of Cookery. Teacher's College, Columbia University, 1915.
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