The Swiss Alps
What is an alp? In the first place, it is not the icy summit, the thought of which springs at once to the mind when the word alp is mentioned.
From: Unknown To: 1911 C.E.
Location: Swiss Alps, Switzerland
Note: This article has been excerpted from a larger work in the public domain and shared here due to its historical value. It may contain outdated ideas and language that do not reflect TOTA’s opinions and beliefs.
From Peeps at Many Lands: Switzerland by John Finnemore, 1911.
What is an alp? In the first place, it is not the icy summit, the thought of which springs at once to the mind when the word alp is mentioned. It is a green summer pasture, rich with tenderest, sweetest grass, and starred with myriads of flowers of the deepest and most vivid hues, mingled with blossoms of pure white and delicate primrose.
Bordering the fields of eternal snow there are wide stretches of open pasture-land, luxuriant with a rich growth of grass and flowers during the short summer, and these pastures are the alps proper. From them the snow-crowned chain of peaks has gained its name.
Almost every Alpine village has its own alp, and cannot easily manage without it. Around the village lie the meadows. But these are shut up for hay in summer, for the hay-loft must be well stored in view of the long severe winter. Above the meadows come the belt of woodland to supply fuel for the winter fires; and far aloft, between the woodland and the snow-fields, stretch the alps, which supply the flocks and herds with the best of summer grazing while hay is made in the valley meadows.
These alpine pastures are dotted with small wooden chalets, where the shepherds live all the summer long. Men and animals stay together on the alp till the approach of winter drives them down to the shelter of the village, perhaps two days’ journey below.
The day of the upward march for the alpine pastures is a great event in the Swiss year. On the morning of the journey the whole village is astir before the dawn. The animals are as full of joy as any among the merry crowd, for they hear the sound of the bell which is always borne before them. They know quite well what it means. They leap and frisk in their delight as the herd sets out in long procession for the pleasant upland meadows.
The finest animals lead the way, and from their necks hang the great chiming bells, while their horns are decked with flowers. Happiest of all are the boys who are now old enough to go aloft for the first time and help the herdsmen on the pasture lands. As they go they sing a favourite song, which begins "On the alps above there is a glorious life"; and a glorious life they find it. They climb up and up from the dull valley to the great open sweeps of mountain between the forest and the snow. Here each day is passed in the open air, basking in the sunshine, plucking the lovely flowers, breathing the sweet, fresh mountain air, drinking the delicious milk which the cows give in abundance, feeding as the latter do on the sweet young grass.
The animals show their delight in a fashion which no one can mistake. It is the pleasantest of changes for them, from the close stalls of the cow-shed to the rich, open airy pastures. So well do they understand the joys of the alps that an animal which has been left behind in the valley has often to be carefully watched. If it can get loose it will break away, and off it goes, climbing the slopes and following every turn of the way until it rejoins its companions on the heights.
The herds, again, show much intelligence. "The Alpine cow knows every bush and pool, the best grass plots, the time for milking; it recognizes from afar the call of its keeper; it knows when salt is good for it, and when to go to the butt or watering-places. It scents the approach of a storm, distinguishes unwholesome herbs, and avoids dangerous places. If a storm is expected, the cow-herds collect the cattle beforehand. The trembling animals stand in a body, with staring eyes and downcast heads, whilst the herdsmen go from one to another encouraging and coaxing each. When this is done, however violent the thunder and lightning may be, and however heavily the hail may pour down upon the herd, not a cow will stir from the spot."
The milk of the animals is made into cheese, and great loads of cheeses are carried back into the valley when the snow-storms of early September announce the sad day of return. The chalets where the herdsmen sleep and make the cheeses are the simplest of dwellings. If woodland be at hand, the huts are built of logs, the crevices stuffed with moss. If it lies far up on the naked slopes it is built of rough stones, the cracks and joints also stuffed with moss, while for roof it has slabs of wood and sods of turf, weighted with great stones, lest the whole should be carried away in a whirlwind.
The herdsmen divide alps into cattle alps and goat and sheep alps. The cattle alps are, of course, the easier slopes, where the pasture lies in wide smooth sweeps, or in valleys easily to be reached. But the higher alps, or those only to be gained by rocky and dangerous paths, are kept for the sheep and goats, which climb nimbly into places where no cattle could go. Sometimes an alp will lie in the very midst of glaciers and snow-fields, or be composed of patches of grass in a wilderness of rocks, and such an alp can only be grazed by the sure-footed sheep or goats.
Among the herdsmen the shepherd's life is the dullest of all. Very often a single man is in charge of a flock of a thousand sheep or more, and he spends the whole summer with his charge, having nothing to do save watch them, for he has no cheese-making with, which to occupy himself. On the other hand, a cattle alp is a busy, lively place. The cows come home to be milked at dawn and dark; the herdsmen and the cheese-makers chat together; the cheeses have to be made, and almost every hour of the day has its task to speed the time along. Then, there are pigs to be looked after at a cattle alp, for pigs can be fattened on the whey left over from cheese-making.
On many alps the alp-horn is still used to call the cows home at milking-time. It is a huge wooden trumpet, often six feet in length, and a skilful performer can draw deep and powerful notes from its wide throat. Its compass consists of only a few notes, but when these ring and echo from height to height the effect is very striking and beautiful.
Most striking of all is the use of the alp-horn at the hour of sunset. On the loftier alps, to which no sounds of evening bell can climb, the alp-horn proclaims the vesper hour. As the sun drops behind the distant snowy summits, the herdsman takes his huge horn and sends pealing along the mountain-side the first few notes of the Psalm "Praise ye the Lord.” From alp to alp he is answered by his brother herdsmen, and the deep, strong notes echo from crag to crag in solemn melody. It is the signal for the evening prayer and for repose. The cattle are gathered together and lie down for the short summer night, and the herdsmen go to their rest.
Finnemore, John. Peeps at Many Lands: Switzerland. Adam & Charles Black, 1911.
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